U is for Upward Bound

Up, UP, AND AWAY! I’m sure we’re all familiar with that phrase from our copyrighted superhero friend. Well today, we’ll skip the blue leotard and just say that U is for Upward Bound Stitch.

What Is It?

Upward Bound stitch is a lopsided chevron lace stitch that is so super easy it should really be used to teach lace knitting. Being as it is a lace stitch, all the even rows are just purl across, so I’m largely going to skip them in this post. Just don’t forget to DO them.

To start, cast on a multiple of nine plus three. I’m using twenty one today.

Row one has you start off by knitting three and then repeating: yarn over, slip slip knit, knit two, knit two together, yarn over knit three. Now might be a good time to review  your increases and decreases if it’s been awhile. If you’re good on the how to part, just work the repeat to the end of row one.

Upward Bound 1

Now that you’ve purled row two, let’s knit four to start row three. Repeat; yarn over, slip slip knit, knit two together, yarn over, knit five to the last four stitches, and knit the last four.

Upward Bound 2

Finish up row four and start row five by knitting five. I mentioned above that this is a lopsided chevron stitch, this is the row that makes it lopsided. Yarn over, slip slip knit, knit seven and repeat that to the last five stitches (which you’ll knit). Notice how there’s only ONE leaning decrease and ONE increase in this row, not two? That’s what makes it look lopsided.

Upward Bound 3

Ok, so that doesn’t show it very well, but finish up row six and go back to row one for a few more repeats and you’ll see what I mean.

Upward Bound 4

What Else Can You Do With It?

The thing I love about repeating panels like this is that anywhere you have a stretch of the right number of stitches, you can pop this in. Back of a sweater too plain for you? throw in one or two of these as a panel! Want to do something a little more interesting on that pillow cover? Add Upward Bound in the middle. Love that blanket, but hate that blank spot. Here’s a stitch for you. Lace panel stitches like this one are SO versatile and SO easy to use and insert into just about anything!

On the other hand, maybe you want to work this on it’s own? See if you can make a circular blanket or rug with this stitch. Try out a cushion cover for the patio furniture or use it to make your next project bag!

The Short Version

Cast on a multiple of 9 + 3

Row 1: K3 *yo, ssk, k2, k2tog, yo, k3 rep from * to end

Row 2: Purl Across

Row 3: k4 *yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k5 rep from * to last 4, k4

Row 4: Purl across.

Row 5: k5 *yo, ssk, k7, rep from * to last 5sts, k5

Row 6: Purl Across.

Repeat rows 1-6 until you have leaped a tall building in a single bound.


T is for Totem Pole Lace

It’s happened. The thing parents everywhere hope they can put off. The thing we all know we can’t avoid. The “highly sophisticated interlocking brick system” has entered the house! For those of you with kids who aren’t into building bricks, it’s the equivalent of barbie shoes/accessories when you’re trying to find them and you usually find them with your foot in the dark. My son loves them though and he’s been building oddly shaped towers and cars and ships and houses as much as I’ll let him. In honor of his tower building, today T is for Totem Pole Lace.

What Is It?

Totem Pole Lace is a lace stitch (obviously) that stacks in a similar way to Horn Cables without needing the cable needle. The pattern is worked over sixteen stitches, so that’s what I’m casting on today.

Like many other panels we’ve worked, this pattern will start and end with a knit one (or a purl one on the other side). Row one has you work that knit one, then purl fourteen, then knit the last stitch.

Row two is the beginning of your lace stitching. Purl one, knit three, knit two together yarn over, knit four yarn over, slip slip knit, knit three and purl one. This row will set up the “totem” for our pattern–which is outlined in holes created by the yarn overs.

T row 2

Then next row just repeats row one, so I’ll not go into details. Row four on the other hand is similar to row two, but not the same, so let’s have a look at that one.

Purl one to start off, then knit two, knit two together, yarn over, knit six, yarn over, slip slip knit, knit two and purl one to end it.

T row 4

Row five looks familiar doesn’t it? Yeah, it’s the same as row one again, super easy! Row six has you work purl one, knit one, knit two together, yarn over knit two, purl four, knit two, yarn over, slip slip knit, knit one, purl one. Notice the purls in the middle of this row? We’re moving into the next “block” of our tower.

T row 6

Row seven is -NOT- the same as row one, so don’t get lazy here.  Knit one like we’ve been doing, purl five this time, then knit four, purl five more and knit the last stitch. The four knits in the middle of this row keep our purls looking like purls on the other side.

T Row 7

Row eight is our last pattern row! Purl one, knit two together, yarn over, knit three, purl four, knit three, yarn over slip slip knit and purl one. You have finished the totem!

T row 8

Repeat as many times as you’d like for a huge tower!

Totem pole

What Else Can You do with It?

This stitch is a panel stitch, so you can insert it anywhere you have sixteen free stitches. The stacking v’s give a fun look to sweaters, bags, skirts, and blankets.

If you want to do something a little different with this stitch, try working the rows forward and then back ward to make a diamond. Start by working rows one through eight, then work row seven through one and back again to get a repeating diamond shape that looks like this:

totem diamond

The Short Version

Cast on 16

Row 1: K1, p14, k1.

Row 2: P1, k3, k2tog, yo, k4, yo, ssk, k3, p1.


Row 3: K1, p14, k1.


Row 4: P1, k2, k2tog, yo, k6, yo, ssk, k2, p1.


Row 5: K1, p14, k1.


Row 6: P1, k1, k2tog, yo, k2, p4, k2, yo, ssk, k1, p1.


Row 7: K1, p5, k4, p5, k1.


Row 8: P1, k2tog, yo, k3, p4, k3, yo, ssk, p1.

Repeat rows 1-8 until you have reached your tower is complete.


S is for Swag Stitch

With all the packing, moving, and writing, I’m ready to go back to Lazy Links for a bit and just chill. However, today’s stitch is pretty close, so I’ll be ok with the fact that today S is for Swag.

What Is It?

Swag stitch is a wonderfully easy way to add texture to your work without having to think too hard about it. It’s a carrying stitch–meaning that you “carry” a piece of yarn across stitch, just like colorwork.

To start, cast on a multiple of five plus two. I’ll be using twenty two today.

The first three rows are easy, purl a row, knit a row, purl a row. Then pause.

S row 1-3

Looks pretty familiar right? As an aside: what you’ve just made is technically reverse stockinette stitch because you start on a purl row. To make stockinette stitch instead, start on a knit row.

Moving on to row four, purl two to start off, the work the repeat slip three, purl two. Make sure to keep the yarn for purling to the front of your three slipped stitches. Remember, we WANT to see that carried yarn.

S row 4

Purl another row and then repeat row four and you’ve finished the pattern rows!

S row 6

Carry on repeating rows one through six for a few more to get an easy, relaxing texture.


What Else Can You Do With It?

Swag stitch is a great candidate for colorwork of any kind. I think it would make a great square in any kind of blanket, or a whole blanket. It would make a fun kids sweater in a variegated or a two tone color work.

Mostly just have fun with it! For me, this is a very relaxing stitch and I enjoy working it when I just don’t want to think too hard about anything.

The Short Version

Cast On a multiple of 5 sts + 2.

Row 1: Purl
Row 2: Knit

Row 3:Purl
Row 4: p2, *sl 3 wyif, p2; rep from * to end
Row 5: Purl
Row 6: rep row 4.

Repeat rows 1-6 until you have enough swagger


R is for Rick Rib

I’m sure you’ve all heard of the Rick Roll today though, R is for the Rick Rib.

What Is It?

The Rick Rib stitch is one of those fun increase one, decrease one lace stitches that ends up working into a rib. Not in the traditional knit one, purl one sense, but in and open work, solid sense.

To start, cast on any even number of stitches, I’ll be working twenty two today.

Then start row one with a knit stitch before launching into your repeat of yarn over, slip one, knit one, pass slipped stitch over (if you need a refresher on the PSSO decrease, I have an entry for that). Keep working your repeat to the last stitch and then knit the last stitch.

Row one done.

rick 1

Row two is basically the same as row one, but purling instead of knitting. Start with a purl one and then work the repeat of yarn over, slip one, purl one, pass slipped stitch over to the last stitch and purl that last one.

One tip for row two, when you go to pass the slipped stitch over, you may want to lift it from the knitting side of the work like this:

Rick slip purl

I found it was a little easier to convince the slipped stitch over the purl that way.

At any rate, you should be done with row two now:

Rick 2

Keep working up a few rows and you’ll have something that looks like this:

rick rib

What Else Can You Do With It?

I may sound like a broken record at this point, but being as this is a rib stitch, I’ll say it again: this stitch can be used in any place that calls for ribbing. Whether it’s a sweater cuff or a waistband, a pillow cover or a sock, ribbing is ribbing and can be used anywhere. Just remember to check your gauge so that you match up with your pattern correctly.

That said (again), I like this stitch for a quick lacy baby blanket (the holes are just right to keep baby safe, but still look pretty), a fun throw, or a basic lace sleeve.

The Short Version

Cast on an even number of sts.

Row 1: k1, *yo, sl 1, k1, psso; rep from *, end k1.

Row 2: p1, *yo, sl 1, p1, psso; rep from *, end p1.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until you have reached your desired length.

Q is for Quilted Reverse Stockinette

I really want socks made out of this…something warm and thick and soft….I just think they would be super pretty…so today, Q is for Quilted Reverse Stockinette.

What Is It?

Well….That’s a good question….It’s sort of a closed diamond shaped mock cable stitch.

harry's opinion

Ok, Harry, you’re right…

Quilted Reverse Stockinette stitch is really what it says. It uses a slipped stitch passed over to create the look of a quilt with a background of reverse stockinette.

To begin, cast on any multiple of eight plus seven. I’m working with 23 today.

Knit one to kick off row one then begin the repeat section of slip one, knit four pass the slipped stitch over the four, and purl three. Work that repeat to the last six stitches, slip one, knit four, pass the slipped stitch over the four knits, and knit the last loop.


Now, we’ve worked that PSSO over two before. It’s the same concept working it over four, but it’s a little harder to keep all four knit stitches on the needle than it is to keep two on, so be CAREFUL not to drop your knit stitches when you’re passing that slipped stitch over and watch your tension. If your tension is too tight, you will not be able to get that slipped stitch over all four knits.

Row two starts with a knit one purl one and then repeats knit one, knit one in the running thread between the stitch you just made and the next stitch, knit one, purl five.


That was me too for a couple minutes, so I took some photos for you (I guess it’s meme day today). Start with your knit one. Then make one using the strand from row one then knit the next stitch.

Effectively you’re making up for the slipped stitch so you don’t lose stitches across your pattern.


Row three and four are both very similar and very easy. Row three starts off  by knitting two, then repeats knit three, purl five across to the last five stitches where you’ll purl three and knit two. Row four takes that and basically mirrors it, but starting with a knit one purl one, and repeating knit three purl five across to the last five where you’ll knit three and purl one knit one.


Row five is pretty much row one again. Start by knitting two then begin the repeat: purl three, move your yarn to the back for knitting, slip one, knit four, pass the slipped stitch over the four. End row five by purling three and knitting two. Remember here, just like before to be careful with your tension so you can get that slipped stitch over the four knits.

qrow 5

Row six begins by knitting one, then repeat purl five, knit one, make one in the slip stitch from row 5, knit one until the last six stitches. To end the row, purl five and knit one.


Row seven and eight are almost mirrors of each other just like three and four were. For seven, knit one, then repeat knit five, purl three until the last six and knit the last six. For row eight, knit one, then purl five knit three to the last six stitches and purl five then knit one.

q row 8

And that’s it! See, it wasn’t hard at all! Now you can repeat it a few times and make some socks!

q done

What Else Can You Do With It?

I REALLY like the idea of this stitch as socks (did I mention that already?). I think it would also be fun for a baby blanket or pillow cover. It would make a nice sweater or scarf as well.

However, since I am all about the socks, let’s look at how to work this in the round. The pattern always ends and begins with a knit stitch, so it’s really easy to alter for working in a round. Just cut one knit one off the end of each row and you’ve got it!

I think these may be easier to work top down rather than toe up, but I seriously think I’ve just found my traveling project.

The Short Version

(multiple of 8 sts plus 7)
Row 1 (RS) K1, *sl 1, k4, pass sl st over the 4 k sts, p3; rep from *to last 6 sts, sl1, k4, pass sl st over the 4 k sts, k1.
Row 2 K1, p1, *k1, m1 in sl st from row 1, k1, p5; rep from *, end p1, k1.
Row 3 K2, *p3, k5; rep from *, end p3, k2.
Row 4 K1, p1, *k3, p5; rep from *, end k3, p1, k1.
Row 5 K2, *p3, wyib sl 1, k4, pass sl st over 4 k sts; rep from *, end p3, k2.
Row 6 K1, *p5, k1, m1 in sl st from row 5, k1; rep from *, end p5, k1.
Row 7 K1, *k5, p3; rep from *, end k6.
Row 8 K1, *p5, k3, rep from *, end p5, k1.
Rep rows 1-8.

P is for Portcullis

Every time I hear the word “portcullis”, I think of the Princess Bride when they yell for Fezzik to stop the portcullis from coming down and locking them out of the castle. So in honor of one of my favorite book-turned-movies, today P is for Portcullis.

What Is It?

Portcullis stitch is a relatively simple lace stitch that reminds me of a tighter Netted Stitch. You start off my casting on any multiple of four plus two more. I’ll work twenty two today (bit of a tongue twister, but we’ll work with it).

portcullis caston

Purl across to finish row one quickly.

port 1

To start row two, knit two together (we have a lot of twos going on today….) then begin the repeat section. In the next stitch, work knit one, yarn over, knit one.

k1yok1 samest

Then, slip one, knit two together, and pass the slipped stitch over the decrease.

Repeat those two steps to the last three stitches. Work the knit one, yarn over, knit one again and then slip slip knit to finish the row.

row 2 port

And that’s it. Repeat those two rows until you’re done fighting the brute squad.


What Else Can  You Do With It?

Like netted stitch, Portcullis stitch is a simple, quick lace stitch that is easy to work in a round and works well for beach bags, curtains, table cloths, or pillow covers.When working this stitch in the round, you’ll want to work a multiple of four and omit the extra two.

I think that this stitch would make some very fun bell sleeves on a summer cover up or sweater.

The Short Version

Cast on a multiple of 4 sts+ 2
Row 1: P across
Row 2: K2tog, *(k1, yo, k1) in the same st, sl 1-k2tog-psso; rep from *to last three sts, (k1, yo, k1) in the same st, ssk.



O is for Oyster Stitch

Since the last stitch was so easy, lets take on a bit of a challenge. Today, O is for Oyster Stitch.

What is it?

Oyster Stitch is similar to Horseshoe Crab Stitch in that it looks arguably like the animal it is named for. If you don’t know what an oyster looks like off hand, here’s a picture:


Yeah, they’re not much to look at on the outside, but that is the general shape we’ll be working with, so let’s get started. First, cast on a multiple of six plus seven. I’m going to cast on 25.

The first row is easy, so I’ll skip it. Just knit across. The SECOND row gets a little more interesting. Purl one to get started (a real oyster would pearl, but we can be punny later), then we’re going to work a double wrap purl. Insert your hook to purl like normal, then wrap the yarn around the needle twice. This will create the illusion of two stitches on the needle when you’re done.

Work four more of those and then purl one. Work five double wrap purls and one regular purl across to the last stitch, then purl one more and get ready for row 3.

row 2 oyster

Knit one to start row 3 and then work an Oyster. What’s an Oyster? Slip the next five stitches onto your working needle and drop the extra wrap (those double wrap purls allowed us to make nice long stitches for our Oyster cluster).

sl 5

Then, slip all five back on to your holding needle

return 5

Now, just like our double wrap purls from before, we’re going to work a set of knit one, purl one, knit one, purl one, knit one all double wrapped. All of that is going to be worked in ALL FIVE loops together (the loops we just shifted).


You’ll have to keep inserting your needle into the same space to get all that done, but there should be enough room because of the double wrap purls from row three. When you’re done, it should look something like this:

Oyster st

Knit on and then work another Oyster and repeat that across.

row 3oyster

Purl one to start row four, then knit five dropping the extra wraps just like before and purl one. Repeat that knit five purl one combo across and you’re done with row four.

row 4 oyster

Row five is the same as row one, just knit across. This will also be the setup for our pattern repeat. The second half of the pattern is the same as the first, but it’s offset, so for row six, start off by purling four rather than one and then work the same repeat as row two (five double wrapped purls, purl one) until the last three and purl those last three.

rose 5 oyster

Following suit, row seven starts off with four knits rather than one and is the same as row three until those last three stitches that you knit.

row 6 oyster

Again, row eight starts with four purls and then works the same as row four until those last three where you purl again. You’ve probably noticed by now, but it’s very common for offset patterns like this one to have the same things going on put shift the knits and purls at the beginning or end of the row (or both!). The shift of the stitches at the beginning and end is what allows the pattern to be offset at all.

row 8 oyster

Now that you’re done with row 8, that’s it! Repeat it a few times or a hundred and enjoy your new, beautiful oysters!


What Else Can You Do With It?

As much as I’m trying to hype this up as a challenge, Oyster stitch is really very easy and a fun way to practice wrapped lace stitches. It is a great tension teacher and can really help you to practice and define your tension as you knit.

Aside from all the learning benefits of this stitch, it knitting two rows to start it off and knitting two rows at row 5 and then stopping is a good way to make a knitted ribbon. Oyster can be a fun panel or edging for a sweater or skirt. It’s a great throw in a worsted or chunky yarn or a boarder for a blanket. It can also knit up into a fun sweater. Try working the double wrap stitches in a contrasting yarn for a colorful variation of this stitch!

The Short Version

Multiples of 6 + 7

Oyster 5: Slip next 5 stitches to working needle dropping extra wraps, slip them back to holding needle, (k1,p1,k1,p1,k1) into all 5 stitches tog, wrapping yarn twice around needle for each stitch.

Note: be sure to bring yarn between the needle points (not over needle) for each st when working (k1,p1,k1,p1,k1) into all 5 sts tog.

Row 1: Knit across.

Row 2: P1, *p5, wrapping yarn twice around needle for each st, p1; rep from * across.

Row 3: K1, *Oyster 5, k1; rep from * across.

Row 4: P1, *k5, dropping extra wraps, p1; rep from * across.

Row 5: Knit across.

Row 6: P4, *p5, wrapping yarn twice around needle for each st, p1; rep from * to last 3 sts, p3.

Row 7: K4, *Oyster 5, k1; rep from * to last 3 sts, k3.

Row 8: P4, *k5, dropping extra wraps, p1; rep from * to last 3 sts, p3.

Repeat rows 1-8 until they close the Oyster Bar.

N is for Netted Stitch

Who’s ready for something easy? There’s been a LOT going on around here, so I think I am. Let’s have a nice easy stitch. Today, N is for Netted Stitch.

What Is It?

Netted stitch is one of the simplest and quickest knitting stitches that I can think of. There’s only one row and it works up super quick. Netted Stitch uses a series of increases and decreases to create a….well….netted look.  First, cast on any even number of stitches. I’ll work 20 today.
netted cast on

Now, the first stitch and the last stitch are going to be knit, so as far as our pattern goes, they’re “extras” that will hold the panel together. Remember that if your working this into something else or working in the round (more on that in a minute).

Knit the first stitch then start the pattern repeat, yarn over, knit two together and work that repeat across to the last stitch. Knit the last stitch and you’re done!

netted cast on

Repeat it for even just a few rows and you can see how it already is looking like a net.

netted sttich

What Else Can You Do With It?

Netted stitch is easy to work in the round which makes it a great choice for a beachcomber bag! The weave is a little too loose for a standard purse, but it does make a nice bit of lace for a pillow cover or table cloth, or curtains.

A really fun project to do with this stitch is to make a panel of netted stitch knitting in white or cream and then embroider into the netting. The holes are large enough that the fabric can be used with a plastic yarn needle to teach kids to sew, cross stitch, or embroider without having to buy a special kit.

The Short Version

Cast on any even number

Row 1: k1, *yarn over,  k2tog, repeat from * to last stitch, k1

Repeat row 1 to desired length, width, or height.

M is for Mosaic

Alright everyone! This is a big moment! We’re halfway through this series! I know it’s been a long one, but that’s for sticking with it so far, today M is for Mosaic.

What Is It?

Mosaic stitch is a fun textured stitch that creates the look of a chain running up the work without having to use cables. To start it, cast on any multiple of 10 plus seven. I’ll be working with 27 today.

27 on

The stitch is worked in two four row sets and since they’re both just knits and purls I’m not going to go into great detail on this one (please message me if you have trouble with it and I’ll work with you). The first four rows work in a pattern that switches between knitting an purling of three, one, three, one, one, one, three until the last four stitches where you work one then three. Knit the knits and purl the purls. Don’t worry if this explanation is too loose today, the short version covers it very clearly. Take a look at the first four rows to see what I mean a little better:

row 1row 2row 3row 4

The second four rows are very similar, but they’re offset from the first four. They’ll all work in a pattern of two, one, one, one, three, one, three until the last five and then it will be one, one, one, two. Same deal here, knit the knits and purl the purls and if this doesn’t make sense, check out the sort version because it’s super easy for a pro like you! Take a look at the last four rows.

row 5row 6row 7row 8

When you’ve got it down you’ll see how quick and easy it can be!

Mosaic Stitch

What Else Can You Do With It?

This stitch is a great texture and a wonderfully easy stitch for beginners to learn on. It would make a fun baby blanket or a sweater.

This is also a fun pattern to turn into something colorful. You can choose to keep the texture in it and use the change from knit to purl to change color, or you can take the texture out and where the pattern calls for a texture change, use color instead something like this:

Row 1 : p3 with color a, *p1 with B, p3 with A, p1 with B, p1 with A, p1with B, p3 with A; rep from * to last 4 sts, p1 with B, p3 with A.

Row 2: k3 with A, *k1 with B, k3 with A, k1 with B, k1 with A, k1 with B, k3 with A; rep from * to last 4 sts, k1 with B, k3 with A.

And so on, using what would be the raised pattern on one side to serve as your color guide.

color mosaic



The Short Version

Multiple of 10 sts + 7.

Row 1 (Right Side): p3, *k1, p3, k1, p1, k1, p3; rep from * to last 4 sts, k1, p3.

Row 2: k3, *p1, k3, p1, k1, p1, k3; rep from * to last 4 sts, p1, k3.

Row 3: p3, *k1, p3, k1, p1, k1, p3; rep from * to last 4 sts, k1, p3.

Row 4: k3, *p1, k3, p1, k1, p1, k3; rep from * to last 4 sts, p1, k3.

Row 5: p2, *k1, p1, k1, p3, k1, p3; rep from * to last 5 sts, k1, p1, k1, p2.

Row 6: k2, *p1, k1, p1, k3, p1, k3; rep from * to last 5 sts, p1, k1, p1, k2.

Row 7: p2, *k1, p1, k1, p3, k1, p3; rep from * to last 5 sts, k1, p1, k1, p2.

Row 8: k2, *p1, k1, p1, k3, p1, k3; rep from * to last 5 sts, p1, k1, p1, k2.

L is for Lazy Links

We’ve all been working really hard and we’re almost halfway through this series. So, let’s be lazy. Today, L is for Lazy Links.

What Is It?

Lazy Links is a false cable and also happens to be a rib stitch. Yes, that means you can use this stitch anywhere you would use a rib stitch! Just make sure to test in out first and see that it has the right elasticity for the job.

To start, cast on any multiple of eight plus ten. I’ll be working with 26.

26 cast on

The first two rows are so simple, I’m not really going to cover them. Starting with a purl two, work your two by two ribbing across row one and then turn and starting with a knit two, work the two by two back across row two.

Now, let’s talk clusters! First, what is a cluster? A cluster is a group yarn overs or stitches that are worked around (or across) two or more stitches (as opposed to a puff stitch or bobble stitch which are both worked over only one stitch–though sometimes they are worked between two stitches on the previous row). OUR cluster is going to be a set of six stitches that we work onto a double pointed needle and then wrap before moving them on to the working needle.

Now, for the sake of being fair to all dominant hands, the holding needle is the needle holding the stitches and the working needle is the one that you are using to work stitches with. For those of you who are right handed, the holding needle is your left needle and the working needle is your right needle.

To work our cluster, use your double pointed needle to knit two, purl two , knit two and then take the working yarn and wrap it two times counter clockwise around the base of ALL SIX stitches.

Slide those stitches over to the working needle and you’ve done it!

So, for row three, start off with a pair of purls to continue the ribbing and then work a cluster of six stitches and repeat that across, ending with a purl two to keep things even.

row 3

Work three more rows of two by two ribbing, knitting the knits and purling the purls (which means if you see a stitch that is knit on the previous row, knit it and if you see a purl on the previous row, purl it if I haven’t already explained that).

Then you’re ready for row seven, which is really the same as row three, but the clusters are offset from row three. Start with purl two, knit two purl twp (again, we’re staying in ribbing here) and then cluster and purl two across to the last four stitches. Knit two more and purl two more to keep the ribs looking good.


Work one more row of ribbing to round out the pattern and you’re all set!

What Else Can You Do With It?

I seriously want to take the thickest, softest yarn I can find and turn this into a monster sized blanket. I love the thickness the ribbing gives this fabric and the cluster pulls the ribs together in a mock cable that ends up looking like diamonds if you do it at the right tension.

Aside from my vision for the coziest blanket in the world, this stitch can be used anywhere a rib stitch is used whether that’s decoratively or functionally. This would also make a nice chunky sweater (maybe with a cowl) or you could add some color to it by working a two color rib (knits one color purls the other color on the front) and using the purl or knit color to wrap the cluster stitches. Just be careful on your wraps! The tension between the colowork and the wraps can sort of mess up the texture:

colorful links

The Short Version

Pattern Stitch: Cluster 6- k2, p2, k2 from holding needle, onto a dpn. Wrap yarn twice counterclockwise round these 6 sts. Slip sts onto working needle.

Cast on any multiple of 8 +10

Row 1: p2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end.

Row 2: k2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end.
Row 3: p2, *cluster 6, p2; rep from * to end.
Row 4: k2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end.
Row 5: p2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end.
Row 6: k2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end.
Row 7: p2, k2, p2, *cluster 6, p2; rep from * to last 4 sts, k2, p2.
Row 8: k2, *p2, k2; rep from * to end.