We’ve all been working really hard and we’re almost halfway through this series. So, let’s be lazy. Today, L is for Lazy Links.
What Is It?
Lazy Links is a false cable and also happens to be a rib stitch. Yes, that means you can use this stitch anywhere you would use a rib stitch! Just make sure to test in out first and see that it has the right elasticity for the job.
To start, cast on any multiple of eight plus ten. I’ll be working with 26.
The first two rows are so simple, I’m not really going to cover them. Starting with a purl two, work your two by two ribbing across row one and then turn and starting with a knit two, work the two by two back across row two.
Now, let’s talk clusters! First, what is a cluster? A cluster is a group yarn overs or stitches that are worked around (or across) two or more stitches (as opposed to a puff stitch or bobble stitch which are both worked over only one stitch–though sometimes they are worked between two stitches on the previous row). OUR cluster is going to be a set of six stitches that we work onto a double pointed needle and then wrap before moving them on to the working needle.
Now, for the sake of being fair to all dominant hands, the holding needle is the needle holding the stitches and the working needle is the one that you are using to work stitches with. For those of you who are right handed, the holding needle is your left needle and the working needle is your right needle.
To work our cluster, use your double pointed needle to knit two, purl two , knit two and then take the working yarn and wrap it two times counter clockwise around the base of ALL SIX stitches.
Slide those stitches over to the working needle and you’ve done it!
So, for row three, start off with a pair of purls to continue the ribbing and then work a cluster of six stitches and repeat that across, ending with a purl two to keep things even.
Work three more rows of two by two ribbing, knitting the knits and purling the purls (which means if you see a stitch that is knit on the previous row, knit it and if you see a purl on the previous row, purl it if I haven’t already explained that).
Then you’re ready for row seven, which is really the same as row three, but the clusters are offset from row three. Start with purl two, knit two purl twp (again, we’re staying in ribbing here) and then cluster and purl two across to the last four stitches. Knit two more and purl two more to keep the ribs looking good.
Work one more row of ribbing to round out the pattern and you’re all set!
What Else Can You Do With It?
I seriously want to take the thickest, softest yarn I can find and turn this into a monster sized blanket. I love the thickness the ribbing gives this fabric and the cluster pulls the ribs together in a mock cable that ends up looking like diamonds if you do it at the right tension.
Aside from my vision for the coziest blanket in the world, this stitch can be used anywhere a rib stitch is used whether that’s decoratively or functionally. This would also make a nice chunky sweater (maybe with a cowl) or you could add some color to it by working a two color rib (knits one color purls the other color on the front) and using the purl or knit color to wrap the cluster stitches. Just be careful on your wraps! The tension between the colowork and the wraps can sort of mess up the texture:
The Short Version
Pattern Stitch: Cluster 6- k2, p2, k2 from holding needle, onto a dpn. Wrap yarn twice counterclockwise round these 6 sts. Slip sts onto working needle.
Cast on any multiple of 8 +10
Row 1: p2, *k2, p2; rep from * to end.